Recipes from The Perils of Paella

Quince Paste on Manchego Cheese
Nancy Fairbanks

Tapas are the national snack of Spain and probably originated in Andalusia as "Covers" (tapar means 'to cover') for sherry, either dry finy or somewhat dry amontillado. These strong aperitifs, which have over 18 percent alcohol, were covered by bar owners with a slice of chorizo sausage or salty cured ham to keep the flies off the drink and/or to induce the patron to drink more because of the thirst induced by the salty tapa. Since Spaniards often eat a hearty lunch at 2:00 or 3:00 in the afternoon and dinner at 10:00, they'd suffer hunger pangs without these tapas and drinks to tide them over and enhance their business and social life.

On a recent trip to Barcelona I visited a museum exhibition that served tapa to visitors. I was there between 12:00 and 1:00, so got in on the snacks offered by an outrageous bird called the Angel of Life and Joy. Whether tapas were offered to art lovers all day or just during the premeal hours I never thought to ask. Here is an easy recipe for a tapa I tried.

• Cut 1 ½ lbs of manchego cheese into ¼-in.-thick wedges after discarding rind.
  
  
• Cut quince paste (membrillo) into 1/8-in.-thick rectangles.
  
  
• Place paste squares on cheese wedges and serve with toothpicks.
  
  
• If membrillo is not available, spread quince jelly on cheese wedges,